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Chef Alex Stupak | MEXICAN FOOD

City: New York City. 510 Madison Ave, New York, 10022

BITE WORTHY | REVIEW | NEW YORK

Empellón is ranked No. 19 on The New York Times‘ “100 Best Restaurants in New York City” list, with its two-story flagship restaurant located in the heart of midtown. Hard to believe owner and Chef Alex Stupak was a pastry chef known for boundary-pushing creations at Alinea, before getting into the taco business. However, based on all his delicious dishes, seems like a successful pivot IMO.

Chef Stupak also worked as the pastry chef at Clio in Boston with Ken Oringer, then at Alinea in Chicago with Grant Achatz, and subsequently at wd~50 in New York with Wylie Dufresne. He became a scholar of the avant-garde and molecular gastronomy movements, and those techniques are evident in many of his dishes at Empellón. Most notably, his avant-garde pastry skills at Empellón truly does shine through with the “Avocado”, not avocado, dessert which should definitely not be missed!

PHOTOS | EMPELLON

GUACAMOLE: SEVEN SALSAS

*presented in order of spiciness from mild to really really spicy

my favorite was the first one… smokey cashew.

TACOS: MAITAKE MUSHROOMS

Quesillo

*this could have passed for meat… didn’t even taste like a maitake, absolutely delicious

TACOS: FISH TEMPURA

Cabbage, Tartar Sauce

*perfectly fried and so delicate, very good!

TACOS: PASTRAMI

Sauerkraut, Mustard Seed Salsa

ENGLISH PEAS

Hoja Santa Yogurt

*a very interesting presentation of fresh peas two ways

TUNA TARTARE

Sunflower Seeds, Chile Ash Cured Bonito

PUMPKIN SEED CAPPELLETTI

Achiote, Honey Nut Squash Juice

JUMBO TIGER PRAWNS

Pasilla Mixe

AVOCADO

Lime Raspado, Eucalyptus Yogurt

*looks like an avocado, cuts like an avocado, but definitely did NOT taste like an avocado. This was surprisingly delicious and so refreshing!

Chef Alex Stupak is currently best known for his trio of Empellón restaurants in downtown Manhattan, but before getting into the taco business, he was a pastry chef known for boundary-pushing creations served first at Chicago’s Alinea, then at (the now-closed) wd~50 in New York. Given that, it’s not surprising that the menu at his latest Empellón restaurant, features a tropical trompe l’oeil. This dessert, which looks like a plain old avocado on a bed of ice, is, in fact, not what it appears to be.

Empellón

Loved the dining space upstairs, which allows you to look down at the downstairs bar. It’s a little less crowded and a calmer sit down environment if you prefer to be away from the hustle and bustle of the downstairs bar and dining area.

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